When you take off for long term travel, as we hope you are inspired to do, the question you will get more than any other is some variation of, “What has been your favorite place?” This South America tour has made that question hard to answer. I mean, we went to Antarctica for goodness sake! But still, both of us agree that Bariloche was our favorite destination, and here’s why.
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Hiking
We caught Bariloche just as spring was coming into full bloom. This meant we got some amazing views of snowcapped peaks, but also that we only scratched the surface of the amazing hikes the area has to offer. Here are a few that you must do if you are there in November or later.
Cerro Campanario – This hike was open and glorious, even in mid-October. The good news is if you don’t want to hike, but want to experience the 360-degree views of Lake Nahuel Huapi, Lake Perito Moreno, and Llao Llao peninsula, you can do so by taking the chair lift. If you’re up for a 45 minute (short but steep) hike, you begin at the base of the lift and finish at the top platform. At the top there are multiple viewing areas, a small restaurant and a gift shop. They even have postcards with stamps and a mailbox so you get those souvenir cards sent home in one easy stop.
Take the number 10 or 20 bus which leaves from the center of town every 20 minutes along Bustillo Ave. Get off at the 17.5km mark. Or, just ask the driver to let you off at Cerro Campanario. The trail starts about 50m to the right of the chair lift (when you’re looking at it from the street). You need a bus card that you can get at one of the kiosks along the main road.
Cerro Llao Llao- This is really a chance to wander through the forest land on Llao Llao peninsula and can be as long or short of a hike as you like. You take bus #20 to the end of the line at Llao Llao resort. Walk back down the hill to the main road and follow it about 10 minutes farther until you reach a ranger station where you can get a map and information about the different attractions. Its a good half day hike, ending in amazing views and a spectacular picnic destination.
Refugio Frey – Consistently listed as must-do in Bariloche, Refugio Frey sits at the base of a mountain lake and can be reached by hiking approximately 4 hours through dense forest and mountain ridges. The hike itself is rewarding and can be celebrated with a cold beer (or soda, coffee, etc.) at the Refugio. Keep in mind the round trip will be around 7 hours for most, so give yourself time. We weren’t able to do this hike because the snow just hadn’t melted enough when we were there.
To get there, take the number 50 bus from the center of Bariloche to the last stop – Lago Gutierrez. You will head to the base of Cerro Catedral Ski Resort (Villa Catedral) Look for the wooden sign that says FREY. This is the beginning of the rail. Head away from the ski resort and after about 100m take the smaller trail signed off to the right. It crosses back over the vehicle road after about another 200m then forks to the right. Keep an eye out for the small signs for the main trail. Once on this main trail, it’s a very well marked path. You can also take the chairlift up and walk from the top to Refugio Frey. Then hike the main trail back to the bottom.
These are just a few of the amazing options, including multiple Refugios which can be used overnight (reservations often required) to extend your hike to a multiple day trek. The website Trek Bariloche, is a wealth of information and I recommend you check them out if you want to explore your options.
Shopping and Eating
Ok, you’re in this amazing outdoor playground, why am I telling you about shopping? Well, because downtown Bariloche also has a lot to offer for those down days (or rainy days) and lots of great eats. There is a big European influence in Bariloche, specifically Bavarian, and you can see it in the architecture and in the food. For a country that is famed for its wine, you might be surprised by all of the locally brewed beers. They also have at least one chocolate shop per block!
Shopping – If you’re looking to upgrade your outdoor gear, you’ve come to the right place. You might not find bargain basement deals, but you will find quality brands and depending on the exchange rate, will still play lower than US prices for a lot of the equipment. Just walk up and down San Martin or Mitre streets and you’ll find all you need.
Anyone like Crepes? – I thought so. There is a great little cafe, La Crepería on Mitre between Villegas and Rolando streets, that serves desert and savory crepes and very good coffee.
Chocolate – I’m not going to list every chocolate shop because it would take the rest of the post. But here are a few tips. You can walk into any chocolate shop and ask for a sample and they’ll give you a little taste of their chocolate. Most sell them in assortments that you can customize or by weight. Stop by some of the mom and pop chocolate shops for a more personalized experience.
Nightlife – An incredibly popular (and crowded) bar for your evening social life, is Manush. Just be prepared to be crowded in and for a possible wait, but they have good bar food (is that a thing?), beer, and amazing atmosphere.
Steak – in our post, 8 Must Read Argentina Travel Tips I mentioned our favorite Parrilla in Bariloche, El Boliche de Alberto. Check out our post, but if you are craving Argentina’s famed Asado, this is the place to go.
Where to Stay
I am not even going to try to be partial or offer more than one option. We stayed at Hospedaje Penthouse 1004 and have recommended it to everyone we have met. It is family friendly, budget friendly, but also very clean and offers amazing views and facilities. After 4 months of backpacking in South America I still think Hospedaje Penthouse 1004 is my #1 favorite hostel/hotel. If you want to save $25 off your booking, book on Booking.com using my link.
They make you fresh bread every morning, have a very well stocked kitchen with two ovens, plenty of counter space, and room to store your food, private and dorm rooms, and the best view around.
Explore Beyond Bariloche
On Bike – If you want to get out and see a little more of the Patagonia countryside, renting a bicycle or car will open up your options. There is a challenging but well worthwhile cycle ride called the Chico Circuit that is a 26km route through the National Forest. There are several bike rental companies. I’ve heard good things about Circuito Chico Mountain Bikes, which are located at km 18.5 on the road out of Bariloche (take bus 20). They will give you a map and some good suggestions and send you on your way. It should be about a 3-4 hour circuit.
In a Car – If you want to explore even farther, consider renting a car and exploring the 7 lakes circuit. There are multiple rental car companies in town, and renting a car is quite simple (maybe too simple). If you want an automatic you’ll have to shop around. We rented from Alamo and all they had were standard transmissions. They give you the appropriate paperwork in case you are stopped at one of the frequent police checkpoints. Don’t let these deter you. Just slow down to the posted speed limit and if they direct you to pull over, give them the paperwork from the rental car company and you’ll be all set. Thankfully we were only pulled over into one of these checkpoints.
Once on your way you can choose to take the entire drive from Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes via Route 40, or to take the long or short circuits. The long circuit takes you as far north as Highway 63 from where you can return south on Route 40 or Highway 63. The shorter route turns at Highway 65 and proceeds along Lago Traful until it meets up with Highway 63. (this road is a little rough, so be prepared for some slow driving) Along these routes you have numerous options to personalize your drive. Whatever you choose, make sure to park the car and get out on foot from time to time.
If you choose one of the longer routes, you may even want to make a 2 day trip of it. There are plenty of towns along the way in which to stay or campsites at the lakes.
Have you taken one of these drives? Let us know what your favorite stops were!
Also check out our other Argentina posts: Eat, Sleep, Love Mendoza, Iguazu Falls, and 8 Must Read Argentina Travel Tips.
